http://igor.chudov.com/projects/ <P> This is a list of my various projects. One project that is not here for historical reason, is this <A HREF=/tmp/onan/Diesel>restoration and repair of diesel Onan DJE generator</A>. I am also publishing a collection of my PDF (and scanned image) <A HREF=../manuals/>manuals</A>. All files there are very descriptively named. </P> <TABLE> <TR> <TD> en-us Copyright Protected 2011-11-12T06:12+00:00 webmaster@algebra.com webmaster@algebra.com 1901-01-01T00:00+00:00 12 hourly http://igor.chudov.com/projects/Bridgeport-Series-II-Interact-2-CNC-Mill/_My-EMC-G-Code-Subroutines <P> Below is the source code for G-code subroutines implementing typical milling tasks (pocketing, etc). They are compatible with EMC 2.3.4 and later. </P> <P> There is a few functions here. The "pocket" functions are for pocketing (removing material in the middle). The "groove" functions do not remove material in the middle of the pocket, they just cut a groove. They are often used to remove pieces of sheet material. The "deep" designation means a multipass cutting approach. </P> <P> Function "cutoff" lets you cut off a piece of stock, held in the vise, and for dimensions you only need to specify the depth of the stock and the Y on the far side. Your end mill must be positioned near the top corner of the part you are cutting off that is close to you. It will not make the X axis and will cut on the X where you have your endmill. </P> <P> <B> TERMS: <A HREF=http://www.gnu.org/licenses/gpl.html>GNU Public License</A>. All code is a copy of my current code and some may be under development, so test before you run. </B> </P> http://igor.chudov.com/projects/Bridgeport-Series-II-Interact-2-CNC-Mill/28-September <PRE> I added a special bracket to attach two Loc-lines to the quill, so that the stream follows the cutter if necessary. This assebmly can be removed. I now have a Loc-Line fixed to the head (for drilling mostly) and the loc-line attached to the quill (for milling). Both are on separate valves, so I can pick which one runs. The clamp does not interfere with homing. The bracket also has a slot to mount the mister line if necessary. I of course made this bracket on the mill (and could not easily do it on my manual mill due to its curvy shape where it "hugs" the quill). Also can be seen, my chip guard, the mounted monitor, and electrical cabinet. Also a Saitek joypad that I use for jogging the mill. Clearly a work in progress, but it is closer to finish now than it is to start and it works. </PRE> http://igor.chudov.com/projects/Bridgeport-Series-II-Interact-2-CNC-Mill/29-High-Speed-Spindle <CENTER> <object width="480" height="385"> <param name="movie" value="http://www.youtube.com/v/rzJtZiR5_-4?fs=1&amp;hl=en_US"></param><param name="allowFullScreen" value="true"></param> <param name="allowscriptaccess" value="always"></param> <embed src="http://www.youtube.com/v/rzJtZiR5_-4?fs=1&amp;hl=en_US" type="application/x-shockwave-flash" allowscriptaccess="always" allowfullscreen="true" width="480" height="385"> </embed> </object> </CENTER> <P> Because my mill can effectively go to 3,000 RPM only, I felt that it would be enhanced by an addition of a high speed spindle. After getting some inspiration from a <A HREF=http://www.cnccookbook.com/CCHighSpeedSpindleAddOn.htm> page about homemade high speed spindles </A>, I have decided to make my own. I decided to make it from a <A HREF=http://www.amazon.com/Bosch-1617EVS-2-1-Variable-Speed-Router/dp/B00004TKHV>Bosch 1617EVS variable speed router</A>. The nice thing about those is a somewhat higher precision spindle, as well as a perfectly round body that was made to be clamped into various clamps -- just what I need. </P> <P> I whipped up a G code program to make an adaptor from a 1x6x18" block ot T6061 aluminum. While the result that you see on the pictures, is exactly as I intended, things did NOT go well in several key areas. First of all, I got my tool table offsets wrong due to a wrong sign. Thusly, their cutting edges would not align with the surface, so I had to make adjustments on the fly. Secondly, making rounded corners on the right side, due to bad computations of where the part should sit in a vise, ended up cutting into the vise jaws. The amount of material taken out of jaws was tiny, but it wounded my pride. Nevertheless, I avoided major disasters and the part was made to the original spec. </P> <P> It also turned out that I made a mistake in designing a "lip" on the quill hole, as this does not permit sufficient engagement of the body with the quill. Stated simply, it prevents the adaptor from going as high as it needs to, for full engagement. It would clamp to about 1/2" tall area, but I think that it should clamp to the entire thickness to avoid loosening due to vibration. I will remove this lip tomorrow. </P> http://igor.chudov.com/projects/Bridgeport-Series-II-Interact-2-CNC-Mill/30-October <P> These pictures show the mill in its permanent location, with the rotary table (4th axis) in place. </P> http://igor.chudov.com/projects/Bridgeport-Series-II-Interact-2-CNC-Mill/31-Lathe-Chuck <PRE> What I did was, I used a QC30 tool holder with a thick "neck" for a large diameter end mill, 3/4 or so, I do not remember. I took a round piece of steel, bored it on the mill to the diameter of the "neck", and drilled holes to bolt on the chuck. Then I put the bored round piece on the toolholder and welded it with 7018. It was not perfectly straight, as I expected. But then I put the toolholder into the spindle, spun it, and trued it as it was mounted, which, not surprisingly, gave an excellent result. </PRE> http://igor.chudov.com/projects/Homemade-Trailer-With-M105A2-Bed/11-With-Cover ./Homemade-Trailer-With-M105A2-Bed/11-With-Cover http://igor.chudov.com/projects/Bridgeport-Series-II-Interact-2-CNC-Mill/32-Spindle-Encoder <P> I installed a spindle encoder on the spindle. Please see <A HREF=/manuals/Bridgeport/Series-II-Interact-2/Maintenance-Manual/Maintenance-Manual-7406.jpg.html>Bridgeport Series II Interact 2 Head diagram</A> to see how the head looks like. </P> <P> I made (on a <A HREF=../../Clausing-6913-Lathe/>Clausing 6913 Lathe</A>), a spindle adaptor that you can see below. This adaptor fit nicely into the spindle (it was 26mm ID), and I made a few dimples on it with a center punch to provide extra grab. The green goo that you see on the thick part of the adaptor, is a Pennzoil marine grease that I put on, mostly, to prevent any rust. There is a tiny flange between the thick and thin portion, that you can see, that keeps the encoder adaptor from falling down below. </P> <P> The Macaroni and Cheese cup is a temporary substitute for the encoder cover. </P> <H3>My first attempt at rigid tapping, 10/32 threads</H3> <H4>Center Drilling</H4> <CENTER> <object width="480" height="385"><param name="movie" value="http://www.youtube.com/v/9S8hMJYUU8M?fs=1&amp;hl=en_US"></param><param name="allowFullScreen" value="true"></param><param name="allowscriptaccess" value="always"></param><embed src="http://www.youtube.com/v/9S8hMJYUU8M?fs=1&amp;hl=en_US" type="application/x-shockwave-flash" allowscriptaccess="always" allowfullscreen="true" width="480" height="385"></embed></object> </CENTER> <PRE> O100 sub G1 Z-0.03 F5 O100 endsub S1 M3 M8 O&lt;apply_to_a_grid&gt; call [0] [0] [0.5] [0.5] [5] [3] [0.01] [100] M2 </PRE> <H4>Hole drilling</H4> <CENTER> <object width="480" height="385"><param name="movie" value="http://www.youtube.com/v/dWzcn_qzwCo?fs=1&amp;hl=en_US"></param><param name="allowFullScreen" value="true"></param><param name="allowscriptaccess" value="always"></param><embed src="http://www.youtube.com/v/dWzcn_qzwCo?fs=1&amp;hl=en_US" type="application/x-shockwave-flash" allowscriptaccess="always" allowfullscreen="true" width="480" height="385"></embed></object> </CENTER> <PRE> O100 sub G1 Z-0.2 F3 O100 endsub S1 M3 M8 O&lt;apply_to_a_grid&gt; call [0] [0] [0.5] [0.5] [5] [3] [0.01] [100] M2 </PRE> <H4>Rigid Tapping at 500 RPM -- my first ever attempt to rigid tap</H4> <CENTER> <object width="480" height="385"><param name="movie" value="http://www.youtube.com/v/D3dT31C5GjY?fs=1&amp;hl=en_US"></param><param name="allowFullScreen" value="true"></param><param name="allowscriptaccess" value="always"></param><embed src="http://www.youtube.com/v/D3dT31C5GjY?fs=1&amp;hl=en_US" type="application/x-shockwave-flash" allowscriptaccess="always" allowfullscreen="true" width="480" height="385"></embed></object> </CENTER> <PRE> (Rigid tapping with 10/32 tap) O100 sub G33.1 Z-0.6 K[1/32] O100 endsub S1 M3 M8 O&lt;apply_to_a_grid&gt; call [0] [0] [0.5] [0.5] [5] [3] [0.01] [100] M2 </PRE> http://igor.chudov.com/projects/Bridgeport-Series-II-Interact-2-CNC-Mill/33-DA-Collet-Holder <P> This is a holder for DA series collets. I CNC drilled a series of holes and added legs (10-32 screws). Nasty drillnig sounds were replaced with youtube supplied music. </P> <CENTER> <object width="480" height="385"><param name="movie" value="http://www.youtube.com/v/q8eGRu1l9QA?fs=1&amp;hl=en_US"></param><param name="allowFullScreen" value="true"></param><param name="allowscriptaccess" value="always"></param><embed src="http://www.youtube.com/v/q8eGRu1l9QA?fs=1&amp;hl=en_US" type="application/x-shockwave-flash" allowscriptaccess="always" allowfullscreen="true" width="480" height="385"></embed></object> </CENTER> <P> Here's the code that did it: </P> <PRE> (DA collet holder) O100 sub G73 Z-0.45 Q0.01 R0.01 F1.2 O100 endsub S1 M3 M8 O&lt;apply_to_a_grid&gt; call [0.7] [0.6] [0.9] [1] [10] [7] [0.05] [100] M2 </PRE> http://igor.chudov.com/projects/Detroit-Diesel-353 <TABLE> <TR> <TD> <P> This page describes how I fixed up a Detroit 353 diesel engine that I acquired at an auction for $200. See the <A HREF=01-Auction/>auction picture</A>, and the <A HREF=02-In-My-Trailer/>first photos in my trailer</A>, which is a converted <A HREF=../Homemade-Trailer-With-M105A2-Bed/>M105A2 trailer</A>, which is a <A HREF=../Homemade-Trailer-With-M105A2-Bed/-main.jpg>homemade trailer</A>. </P> <H4>Serial and Model Numbers</H4> <PRE> On Block: 2 CWC-5125423-133 Type SW-VS IDLE 550 MIN Governor 5___72 5138851 </PRE> <P> Please see <A HREF=/manuals/Detroit-Diesel/Detroit-Diesel-Series-53/>Detroit Series 353 Maintenance Manual PDF</A>. </P> </TD> <TD> <IMG SRC="./-Detroit-Diesel-Model-353.jpg" ALT="Detroit Diesel Model 353"> </TD> </TR> </TABLE> <P> The engine would overspeed. Turns out that the cause was a <A HREF=03-Stuck-Injector/>stuck injector</A>. I took it out and unstuck it. Here you can see the engine <A HREF=04-Repaired/>running great</A>. </P> http://igor.chudov.com/projects/Detroit-Diesel-353/01-Auction ./Detroit-Diesel-353/01-Auction http://igor.chudov.com/projects/Detroit-Diesel-353/02-In-My-Trailer ./Detroit-Diesel-353/02-In-My-Trailer http://igor.chudov.com/projects/Bridgeport-Series-II-Interact-2-CNC-Mill/34-Adding-Servo-Control-to-Knee <P> The point of this project is to motorize the knee, that is, replace a crank handle with a DC servo motor so that the knee could be moved with precision and speed. This "axis" is normally called the "W" axis. It would allow me to change tools from short to long, within the same G code program, and not lose the Z offset. </P> <P> I lucked out and purchased, on eBay, a <A HREF=http://www.soelma.it/>Soelma</A> Italian made DC motor, with a shaft for encoder in the back, with a <A HREF=http://www.sitiriduttori.it>SITI</A> "MI 40" gearbox (see drawing below). The price was $41. The DC motor is 65 volts, 3,000 RPM, with 15:1 reduction. It is worm driven. At rated RPM, it would give me roughly 40 IPM speed of the knee, which is great. </P> <P> The knee has a pneumatic assist, a pneumatic cylinder pushing it upwards. In essense, this takes off a lot of stress away from the knee screw, and makes the compressed air (air compressor) take most of the physical "work" lifting the knee. This helps with screw wear, as well as requires less torque to move the knee up and down. </P> <P> The first part was making a "dog clutch" to engage the same thing on the knee crank. <object width="425" height="344"><param name="movie" value="http://www.youtube.com/v/7RE-7DE11xI?hl=en&fs=1"></param><param name="allowFullScreen" value="true"></param><param name="allowscriptaccess" value="always"></param><embed src="http://www.youtube.com/v/7RE-7DE11xI?hl=en&fs=1" type="application/x-shockwave-flash" allowscriptaccess="always" allowfullscreen="true" width="425" height="344"></embed></object>. I made it from a 12L14 steel bar. </P> <P> The G code to make the dog cultch teeth is here: </P> <PRE> (knee teeth) #&lt;_safez&gt; = 0.03 #&lt;_xc&gt; = 0 #&lt;_yc&gt; = 0 #&lt;_milld&gt; = 0.125 #&lt;hub_diameter&gt; = [5/8+0.02] #&lt;_radius1&gt; = [ [1-#&lt;_milld&gt;] / 2 ] #&lt;_radius2&gt; = [ [1+5/8] / 2 ] #&lt;nteeth&gt; = 9 #&lt;_frate&gt; = 0.7 #&lt;_thickness&gt; = 0.15 #&lt;cutoff_thickness&gt; = 0.46 #&lt;_d1&gt; = 0.175 #&lt;_d2&gt; = 0.273 #&lt;_zstep&gt; = [#&lt;_milld&gt;/3] F#&lt;_frate&gt; G40 S1 M3 M8 G54 O&lt;withdraw&gt; call [#&lt;_safez&gt;] G0 X0 Y0 G10 L2 P1 X0 Y0 R0 O&lt;withdraw&gt; call [#&lt;_safez&gt;] G0 X0 Y0 (One pass of one tooth) O100 sub #&lt;z&gt; = #1 #&lt;r&gt; = #2 #&lt;d1&gt; = #3 #&lt;d2&gt; = #4 G0 X[#&lt;r&gt; + #&lt;_milld&gt;] Y[#&lt;d2&gt;/2] G4 P0 G0 Z#&lt;z&gt; G41.1 D#&lt;_milld&gt; G0 X[#&lt;r&gt;] Y[#&lt;d2&gt;/2] G1 X0 Y[#&lt;d1&gt;/2] G1 Y0 G1 Y[-#&lt;d1&gt;/2] G1 X[#&lt;r&gt;] Y[-#&lt;d2&gt;/2] G40 O100 endsub (One pass of one tooth) O101 sub #&lt;safez&gt; = #1 #&lt;old_z&gt; = #2 #&lt;z&gt; = #3 #&lt;r&gt; = [#&lt;_radius2&gt; - #&lt;_radius1&gt;] O100 call [#&lt;z&gt;] [#&lt;r&gt;] [#&lt;_d1&gt;] [#&lt;_d2&gt;] (Remove material in the middle) g1 y0 g4 p0 g1 X[#&lt;r&gt;-0.12] g0 X[#&lt;r&gt;+#&lt;_milld&gt;] O101 endsub (Does one tooth in many passes) O102 sub O&lt;deepanycut&gt; call [101] [#&lt;_safez&gt;] [-#&lt;_thickness&gt;-0.01] [#&lt;_zstep&gt;] O102 endsub (Make the teeth) O&lt;withdraw&gt; call #&lt;_safez&gt; O&lt;boltholepattern&gt; call [0] [0] [#&lt;_radius1&gt;] [#&lt;nteeth&gt;] [0] [102] O&lt;withdraw&gt; call #&lt;_safez&gt; M2 </PRE> <P> The dog clutch, right after being made, did not want to mesh with the teeth of the knee crank, but it was very close, as intended. After about 10 minutes with a file, the teeth meshed perfectly, with no perceptible backlash. </P> <P> Tuning of this setup was very complicated. The little gear motor, essentially, has to move a 1,000+ lb chunk of metal, using an ACME screw and a transmission with a lot of "springiness" and friction in it. Eventually, I did tune it so that everything works smoothly. I also had to add a custom HAL component that Andy Pugh suggested on EMC-users mailing list, to turn off power to the servo gear motor 10 seconds after inactivity. </P> <P> Everything works great now! </P> http://igor.chudov.com/projects/Lincoln-SA-200 <P> This page details my progress in repairing a Lincoln SA-200 welding generator. </P> http://igor.chudov.com/projects/Lincoln-SA-200/00-Purchased ./Lincoln-SA-200/00-Purchased http://igor.chudov.com/projects/Lincoln-SA-200/01-Starter ./Lincoln-SA-200/01-Starter http://igor.chudov.com/projects/Bridgeport-Series-II-Interact-2-CNC-Mill/35-Large-Enclosure <P> This is a full size milling enclosure for my knee mill, that I made from 1/4" polycarbonate. If you want to know <B>how to bend polycarbonate</B>, I bent it using a propane torch. Note that you have to be careful and not overheat any area, or it will start bubbling. It was good enough for my needs, anyway. I also tried a plastic heating strip, and it was useless. </P> <P> The front piece is, obviously, removable. I <A HREF=35-Large-Enclosure-8168.jpg.html>cut locking tabs</A> in the front and side pieces, that lock it in position when installed. </P> http://igor.chudov.com/projects/Lincoln-SA-200/02-Carburetor ./Lincoln-SA-200/02-Carburetor http://igor.chudov.com/projects/Lincoln-SA-200/03-Carb-And-Spark-Plugs ./Lincoln-SA-200/03-Carb-And-Spark-Plugs http://igor.chudov.com/projects/Lincoln-SA-200/04-Governor ./Lincoln-SA-200/04-Governor http://igor.chudov.com/projects/Detroit-Diesel-353/03-Stuck-Injector <P> The reason why this Detroit diesel was getting out of control and ran at runaway speed, is that one of the injectors was stuck. On a couple of photos, you can see me pointing my finger at the N45 injector that is stuck. </P> <P> If you are visiting this page from your favorite search engine looking for <B>stuck detroit diesel injector</B>, here's how I fixed it. I took it out of the engine, put in a can of carb cleaner for a couple of hours, and patiently loosened the arm with a tiny brass hammer. </P> <P> Click <A HREF=../04-Repaired/>here</A> to see the engine running. </P> http://igor.chudov.com/projects/Detroit-Diesel-353/04-Repaired <P> All that was necessary to fix this masterpiece, was to get the <A HREF=../03-Stuck-Injector>stuck detroit diesel injector</A> out and get it "unstuck". Here are photos of the engine running. </P> http://igor.chudov.com/projects/Homemade-Grill-On-Trailer <DIV STYLE="float: right;"><IMG SRC=./-Homemade-Grill-On-Trailer.jpg></DIV> <P> This page describes a project, which is just beginning, of converting an old gasoline powered Smith air compressor on trailer, into a portable grill on trailer. I especially liked that this trailer already comes with a pintle hitch, since this is what my truck has on the receiver. </P> <P> I <A HREF=00-as-Bought/>bought</A> it for $50 from a local company. Whie the trailer seems to be in a working condition, the engine appears to be beyond its useful life and is missing the starter. I have no interest in repairing this engine, as I know this to be a <A HREF=../Detroit-Diesel-353>total</A> waste of <A HREF=../Lincoln-SA-200>time</A>. Meaning that in the end I usually succeed, but it takes way too much time. </P> http://igor.chudov.com/projects/Homemade-Grill-On-Trailer/00-as-Bought ./Homemade-Grill-On-Trailer/00-as-Bought http://igor.chudov.com/projects/Homemade-Grill-On-Trailer/01-Taking-Engine-Out <P> Taknig the fuel tank and the engine out of the compressor took a lot of sweat and bruised hands. </P> http://igor.chudov.com/projects/Other-People-Projects/Bridgeport-8F-Power-Feed <PRE> FILENAMES: BptFeed01.JPG BptFeed02.JPG BptFeed03.JPG BptFeed04.JPG BptFeed05.JPG BptFeed06.JPG BptFeed07.JPG BptFeed08.JPG BptFeed09.JPG DESCRIPTION: These are pictures of a retrofit project to fix the speed control electronics of a Bridgeport power feed unit. Posted by Jon Spear <jdspear@alumni.princeton.edu>. The following description was provided: ================================================================= BptPowerfeed.txt, created September 9, 2002, by Jon Spear, of San Francisco, CA The 8 photo files, BptPowerfeed0*.jpg, where * goes from 1 to 8, document the procedure I followed for swapping out the old control board for my Bridgeport mill's electronic power feed unit. The original board, made in 1979, had gone bad, and I wanted to replace it with a more modern commercially available unit. The unit I chose was made by Minarik, which I got from eBay for about $45. The model number is MM23001C. I don't think that this board is especially unique, but it does have the following nice features, which is why I selected it: 90VDC (5amps) output to armature, 100VDC (1 amp) output to field windings. Feedback control;, with adjustments for maximum torque (i.e., armature current limit), and IR compensation (a feedback parameter which is adjusted for a balance of keeping the motor speed insensitive to load perturbations vs. keeping the speed stable). Also, the board was small enough that it fit into the original box, from which I removed the old board. This allowed me to upgrade the machine while not altering its original apearance. Figure captions: 1.This is the old board, made by SECO, and the box in which it was mounted, which attaches to the side of the mill. 2. Same stuff, flipped to see reverse sides. 3. Here are the wires, switches, speed control potentiostat, that mount underneath the feed unit and motor assembly. 4. This is what the replacement electronic control unit looks like. I mounted it onto a scrap piece of 1/8" aluminum plate, with holes cut so that it would mount where the original board had gone. I was able to use almost all the original wires, and added a couple of 18 gage wire leads for the modifications I made to the armature outputs. The new unit used 4 fewer leads than the original, so now there are some unused wires between the box and the feed unit assembly. The original 500 ohm pot was removed, and replaced with the 10k ohm pot that came with the Minarik drive. Also, the single pole "on-off" switch was replaced with a new Common-NormallyOpen-NormallyClosed" switch. this switch allows for rapid traverse. 5. Here's what the back of the box looks like, with the protective back cover plate that seals out contaminants like chips. 6. Here is the original electrical diagram for the original board. Note that the "reversing switches" control the polarity of the motor's field windings, which carry about 1 ampere of current. There are 11 leads plus ground, 4 more than the replacement unit. 7. Here is the way I decided to wire up the replacement board. The notable difference is that now, the reversing switches control motor direction by changing the polarity applied to the armature, which can be up to 5 amperes. When the unit is powered up, and the power feed lever is in its "neutral" center position, the armature is disconnected. However, the filed windings are always energized, using up about 100 watts of electricity, so the motor will get warm if the power is left on constantly. I think this was the best possible solution with the hardware I had available. I haven't had any problems with it in the past few weeks, since I installed it. This is the diagram that I thought would be worthwhile, to share with other Bridgeport owners who might have an old broken power feed board. 8. Here is a photo of the assembled unit now in use. Looks pretty close to original... The feed rate can go from about 0.4 inches per minute, up to 40 inches per minute. If you have questions or comments, my email address is jdspear@alumni.princeton.edu p.s. Currently, I see that the same model of dc motor drive, Minarik Model MM23001C, is available from a place called, "Surplus Center," of Lincoln, NE. Their US phone number is 1-800-488-3407, and the catalog item number is 11-2269, for a price of $56.95. Good wishes, Jon </PRE>